Children's Python Facts:
Lifespan: Approximately 18+ years
Size: Around 90-120cm
Minimum size habitat: 90 x 45 x 60cm
Diet: Frozen mice, rats and quail.
Only one Children's Python should be kept in a single enclosure.
Habitat Checklist
- Enclosure; 90 x 45 x 60cm minimum
- Water Bowl
- Hide
- Substrate
- Basking Log
- Artificial Plants
- Heat Fitting & Globe or Ceramic Emitter
- UV Fitting & Globe (optional)
- Thermostat & Thermometer
- Timer
- Reptile Disinfectant
- Feeding Tongs
Heating & Lighting
Heating:
Providing adequate temperature gradients within a python’s enclosure is essential for their health and wellbeing. Children’s pythons require a basking spot maintained between 28-32˚C and a cool end of 22-26˚C during the day. Nighttime temperatures should not drop below 21˚C. Temperatures should be checked daily and must be regulated with the use of a good quality thermostat. Recommended sources of heat include the use of incandescent, halogen or ceramic globes as well as heat mats and heat cords.
Lighting:
Being primarily nocturnal species, ultraviolet light (UV) is not as essential to children’s pythons as it is to other species of reptile. However, Kellyville Pets recommends the use of UV lighting with all python species. There are a number of positive benefits to a python’s health by providing them with UV lighting. A 5.0 UVB tube or compact globe is an ideal source of artificial UV light.
Pythons require a ‘day and night’ cycle with lights running for approximately 10-12 hours each day, set on a timer. Python’s also benefit from short periods of access to unfiltered, natural light outdoors.
Proper Nutrition
In captivity, children’s pythons can be fed on a range of different foods depending on their age and size. Pythons eat frozen mice, rats and quail.
A juvenile python should be fed an appropriately sized rat or mouse once a week. Adult children’s pythons can be fed a large mouse or small rat every two to three weeks.
Food items must be completely thawed and warmed up (place in zip lock bag in hot water) before being offered to the snake. It is recommended to feed captive pythons in a designated ‘feeding’ tub, separate to their normal enclosure.
Live rodents should never be offered to a python as this poses many potential risks to the snake. It is also good practice to keep a record book of when a python eats, what sized food item it takes as well as when it sheds its skin.
Fresh water should always be available to your python and changed regularly.
Common health issues:
Mites: Reptile mites cause significant irritation to pythons. A python may submerge itself in it’s water bowl if it is infested with mites.
Dysecdysis (Abnormal Shedding): Low humidity levels can sometimes result in a python having an ‘incomplete’ shed.
Respiratory Infection: A bacterial or viral infection that may be caused by incorrect temperature, inadequate ventilation or too much humidity.
Habitat Accessories
The enclosure should be furnished to re-create the animals natural environment including the use of a background, plants, rock ornaments and timber branches for climbing and basking. An absorbent substrate is also important such as coco fibre, aspen or a commercial reptile substrate.
Daily ‘spot checks’ should be carried out and any faeces, shed skin or uneaten food removed immediately. A full substrate change should be carried out every 6-8 weeks (depending on what substrate is used) and the enclosure thoroughly cleaned with a reptile-safe disinfectant.
Handling:
Don't handle your python for at least 24 hours after feeding to avoid stress and possible regurgitation.
Wash your hands before and after handling your python.